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Remove flowers or buds, if any, then the leaves from the bottom 6-7cm of the stem. Your cutting should have 3-4 leaves as supporting too many leaves will place your cutting under additional stress. Large leaves can be cut in half.
You can wound or slit 1-2cm at the bottom of the stem to encourage roots to form, or cut away a section of the bark.
Rooting hormones are made for different plant types and will root formation. They are liquid or dust. Hormones are optional not essential, they may help with plants slower to start root growth.
To avoid contaminating the can of hormone, tip out enough for your batch of cuttings. Dip each cutting into the hormone, and shake to remove any excess (too much can actually inhibit or damage root growth). When you have finished, throw away any hormone remaining.
Pots & Potting Mixtures
Pots about 10-12.5cm in diameter are best (temperature fluctuations are greater in a small pot). Use only clean a pots - any residual soil may have organisms or diseases that can contaminate and kill your cutting.
Fill the pot with a propagating compost mix-see box
Using a dibber (or your plant label) make holes in the soil around the outside of the pot where the drainage is better. Place the cuttings into the holes and gently firm the soil around them, eliminating any air pockets. (If you push the cutting into the soil you can damage the stem end.)
Place 5 or 6 cuttings in each pot but don't overcrowd them or you can encourage botrytis (grey mould).
Label clearly and water the pot, very gently with a fine spray, settling the potting compost around the cuttings. Continue to mist the cuttings with a spray can every few days.
Propagating Environment
The key to success is maintaining the right environment- too wet and your plant will suffocate, the roots unable to breathe in the sodden soil. Too dry and the plant will die, as the leaves will continue to lose water through transpiration and there are, as yet, no roots to take up water from the soil.
The trick is to maintain a balance until the roots form, yet to ensure that botrytis (grey mould) and other diseases do not establish in the moist, warm environment.
A shade house or shady corner in a greenhouse away from draughts and direct sunlight is ideal. A windowsill out of direct sunlight will substitute, or try your cuttings outside in a shady corner.
Create a simple mini-glass house under a cloche. An empty, washed 2-litre soft drink bottle with the neck cut off, upended over your plant pot makes an effective if inelegant cloche. Or use a plastic bag, supported inside by a small stick. Watch for botrytis with any closed cloche.
Heated propagators aren't necessary except for difficult plants, e.g. rhododendrons. Take care also, these can dry out quickly and you must mist regularly. Heated propagators are not suitable for grey leaved plants or those needing hot, dry conditions.
Success!
When you can see signs of new growth or the roots have begun to show out of the bottom of the pot your cuttings have taken. This may take a few weeks or several months.
 Remove any close covering to increase ventilation. Pot up the plants individually and over-winter in a frost-free greenhouse or cold frame. |
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Propagate your Lavatera 'Barnsley' |
Gardener's Tip
Keeping your rooting hormone in the fridge will prolong its life. | |
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Propagating Mix
- The mixture must be friable and free
- A good mix will drain readily and not become waterlogged
- A light free mixture enables young roots to make their way easily
- The classic, recommended mixture is 2 parts peat to 1 part horticultural sand
- Peat absorbs and retains moisture, preventing the plant from drying out
- A well rotted, fine compost and fine grade bark will substitute for the peat
- Try making your own mix, adjusting the mixture for each plant
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Lavenders grow readily from cuttings
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Some Plants for Cuttings
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Berberis
Brachyglottis (Senecio)
Buxus
Calluna
Caryopteris
Choisya
Cistus
Cotoneaster
Dianthus
Erica
Felicia
Fuschia
Hebe |
Helianthimum
Hydrangea
Lavatera
Lavendula
Perovskia
Philadelphus
Potentilla
Pyracantha
Rosmarinus
Salvia
Skimmia
Verbena
Vinca |
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Harder plants to try |
Arbutus
Camellia
Ceanothus
Cornus
Chamaecyparis
Eleaganus
Eucyphia
Garrya |
Gaultheria
Ilex
Juniperis
Nanadina
Osmanthus
Pieris
Rhododendron |
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Care of New Cuttings
Before planting newly grown cuttings in the garden, remember to harden them off to reduce the shock from the change from protected to open garden conditions.
So you can see, it's easy, it's fun and you can have lots of new plants for your garden and to give away to friends.
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