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Watering Methods contd.
Automatic irrigation
Automatic irrigation may be an option if you have a large garden, have a lot of new plants, have a very freely draining soil and are not available to water them regularly. It is expensive however, and you need for water may shift from one area of the garden to another, and the automatic system needs to be able to be flexible enough to deal with this.
Drippers
Alkathene lateral hoses, laid semi-permanently and with individual drippers attached are invaluable for extensive or important major plantings of trees and shrubs. Especially in dry climates, dripper lines are key to establishing plants. The line is also available for efficient emergency watering in times of extreme drought, such as 1997-98.
 The drippers slowly release water at a pre-determined rate (usually 1,or 2 litres per hour) and the water will penetrate the soil in a small radius but to a good depth, if it is left running for, say, a day every two to three weeks, depending on conditions. As with all watering, little and often is not effective.
An alternative to the expense of installing a dripper line is to use a large container (farmers have plastic drench container, a large paint bucket or other plastic bucket is equally suitable) with a dripper punched into the base. The container can be placed by the tree or shrub, filled with water and left to get on with seeping the water into the ground. If you get gusty winds we recommend tying the container to the tree stake to stop it flying away when empty!
Soak Hoses
Soak and 'leaky' hoses are a great option, allowing you to get the water into the ground where it is needed, applying it slowly and gently thus minimising run-off, wastage and erosion. These hoses apply water evenly onto the border or through the vegetable garden. Most are inexpensive and certainly make watering easier.
Avoid using spray irrigation on sloping gardens; water run-off and soil erosion will be more marked than on the flat. Soak hoses really come into their own here.
Bottles
Another solution that is effective and flexible is to use individual watering for each plant.
Used soft drink and wine bottles make portable watering devices for establishing plants or to keep a plant going while you are on holiday. The bottles can either be fitted with a water dispensing nozzle, or the can be pushed into heavier soils, and will release their precious water slowly, seeping it into the soil.
It may sound odd but the bottles are camouflaged by the plants they are watering and, if it means the difference between plant survival or not, it is definitely an option! |
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Waterwise Design
 Include water conservation as a key factor in designing your garden. This means that you would, for instance, avoid having large expanses of lawn in a sunny, parched area.
Gravel gardens are great for water conscious gardeners climates, but avoid very pale stones that reflect and thus increase heat in the area of the plant, or very dark stones that absorb it. Think of a riverbank or the beach on a hot day - hot on the surface but cool and moist just a few centimetres below the surface. |
Dry Garden Design |
Plant Selection
Using drought tolerant plants will reduce you water needs. | | |
Watering with Bottles
Plant Camouflage for Bottles |
 Gardener's Tip
To measure the rate of your sprinkler system placethree to five straight-sided same size containers under the sprinkler. Measure each one after one hour and then average the amount. | | |
Seedlings
Seedlings in the garden or in the greenhouse need to be watered with a very fine spray to preserve a fine 'tilth' or texture in the soil. Rough soil with large crumbs or a thick crust make like difficult for new seeds.
Don't over water your seedlings or mould, fungi and "damping off" can result. But don't let them dry out either, as this places the new plants under stress. A good watering regime for seeds is to water on a consistent manner, wetting the soil, but with care. (More Seedling Care.)
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