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In the Front Row (contd)
A circle of low stakes with twine creating a cage holds these plants up. Wind twine around each cane, knotting it to prevent slippage. Another good solution is a semicircle of wire with a leg at each end, inserted in front of the plant and under the fallen stems. There are proprietary stakes with green or dark coloured coating that are almost invisible when in place.
The Mid-Levels
In the middle of the border there are a number of clump forming plants that plants don't always need support, but in windy gardens it's advisable. Support does help to keep your planting where you wanted it, instead of falling over next door.
Plants such as the softer stemmed salvias, thalictrum, asters, galega, nicotina and dahlias need some light 'scaffold' if they are not to end up leaning into or over their neighbours. This not only spoils the design, it creates flattened area in the border. Not quite the ideal!
Densely growing plants can grow through a mound of inter-woven twigs or manuka brush. Collect the brush and insert the thicker ends reasonably deeply into the soil, remembering they will be useless as a support if they work loose. Make a circle and insert several sticks in the middle. Bend the thin, twiggy tops towards the centre, making a rough, rounded sort of wigwam. The plants will soon cover up their 'foundation'. Secure with garden twine - natural-coloured is best, orange parcel string will show up all summer!
If you don't have the raw materials, time or confidence for this, try a proprietary circular support with a grid top. These do a fine job of supporting plants. You can improvise with stakes and a wire mesh topping, but it is harder to disguise the stake 'legs' than the green metal of the commercial version.
Taller plants
Taller plants are obviously the most at risk from strong wind. In exposed gardens, plant tall plants in the most sheltered positions, or choose those that will cope with the conditions.
Tall plants need a higher framework and for those with single stems the brush wigwam is not as satisfactory. Individual bamboo canes are the classic solution. Indeed, this is the only solution for the tall single stems of sunflowers, lilies and even hollyhocks.
The stakes need to be put in place when the plants are about 45cm (18in) high and your garden can end up looking like a stick-graveyard for an unconscionably long time. When you stake plants individually make sure you use twine, not wire or kitchen ties. Tie the twine in a figure eight, looping it round the stake and the plant with a crossover in between.
Plants that form clumps over time, such as delphiniums, phlox or a stand of hollyhocks, can be supported using a tall version of the proprietary circle and grid support discussed above, with the grid set much higher to support a group of plants.
Plants with strong foliage but a large flower head are at risk when the flowers catch the wind and rock the plant in the ground. The massive clouds of Crambe cordifolia are an example. With impressive foliage that reaches roughly a metre but the flower head rises to well over 2m (6ft6in). In exposed positions stake the flower stems. The cloud of flowers will quickly hide the stake, and it can be removed later in the summer when the flowers have finished.
Dahlias have very soft stems and are especially vulnerable in the wind. A stout stake, placed when the tuber is planted, enables the main stems to be tied in as it grows. A grid support can be sued but larger openings are needed.
Lilies, sumptuous essentials of summer, come in tall and taller varieties. Most need staking unless in a sheltered position, single stakes or a grid are suitable, again, place it early.
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Semi-circular supports for paeonies; almost invisible
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Don't ignore the mid-level plants
Brush supports are woven together, natural looking and easily camouflaged
Single stakes can be the best solution for tall stems and plants
Tie plants with a figure-8
A grid supports groups of taller plants
Clouds of flowers on Crambe cordifolia; stake in exposed positions
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