Naturalising Bulbs Naturalising bulbs in grass is a challenge in our climate. Spring grass growth in New Zealand is far more vigorous than in English gardens, where sweeps of naturalised bulbs look so wonderful. Grass can swamp bulbs, especially the smaller types, and spoil the desired effect.
Naturalising under deciduous trees or maintaining close-mown grass against the naturalised bulbs works best. Unless you have removed the grass naturalising crocus, as in the wonderful crocus planting at Kew gardens in London, takes a lot of work.
If planting in grass, mark out an area about 1 metre square with your spade, cut the turf on three sides and peel back the turf. Use your spade or a bulb-planter to make generous holes for the bulbs and add a little fertiliser in the bottom of each. Place the bulbs in the planting holes, fill with soil and then replace the turf.
It is hardier than you could imagine to plant bulbs so that they look natural. Throwing a handful of bulbs on the soil or grass is a recommended method, but one that can result in lost bulbs.
Planting Small Bulbs Smaller bulbs are best planted towards the front of the border or under deciduous shrubs, where they can be seen and won't have to compete with large, lustier bulbs and plants. Truly special bulbs are often best planted in a container where you can see them, won't lose them or accidentally put the spade through them while they are dormant.
Feeding Bulbs The best fertiliser is compost and blood and bone added to the soil before you plant. However, liquid fertilisers high in potash can be used every ten days or so from when the first buds show until the leaves begin to die back.
Bulbs need most feeding after flowering; that's when they are building reserves for next season's flowers.
Watering In dry weather water bulbs as the flowers appear.
Deadheading Naturalised bulbs don't really need deadheading, but the more showy border varieties and container bulbs will benefit from have spent flowers removed. This directs energy into the bulb and producing flowers for next year instead of making seeds. It also helps to make you borders look more cared for, but it is not compulsory.
The leaves should be left for at least six weeks before being removed. Longer is better as the bulbs need this period to generate and store food and they simply will not flower well if you cut the foliage before those food stores have been accumulated.
Try planting bulbs where their foliage will be able to remain inconspicuously until it dies down. Planting under deciduous trees and shrubs is a wonderful way to brighten the garden in spring and the emerging leaves hide the bulb foliage. Acer palmatum, the smaller magnolias and the various viburnums (V. plicatum 'Mariesii' and V. tomentosum are both good) will cover early bulb foliage.
Perennials also emerge at just the right time to disguise tatty bulb foliage. Hostas are wonderful foliage plants that will cover the dying bulb leaves. Paeonies, thalictrum, aconitum are among the many other lovely perennials that emerge at the right moment to disguise sagging bulb leaves.
Lifting bulbs Tulips are the bulbs most often lifted and treated as an annual. In cooler climates and on well-drained soils tulips can be left in place. You may need to fertilise them and replanting in a fresh position every three years or so will help to keep them vigorous.
In warmer climates you will need to lift tulips as the foliage dies and store them in a paper bag in a cool, shady place such as the garden shed. Before planting they will need chilling in the fridge to encourage them to flower - don't do this when they have just been lifted or they will go mouldy.
When lifting bulbs/corms, save the tiny offsets. Pot them up or plant them in a corner where they can grow undisturbed. They will take time to flower but will flower true to type.
Plant Well and Enjoy Bulbs are designed to grow - they come ready with a reserve of energy to produce a wonderful mass of bloom in the garden. Plant well and enjoy for years to come.
Bulbs for late winter and spring Anenome nemerosa Fritillaria Galanthus (Snowdrop)
Gladiolus byzantinus Iris reticulata, I. histriodes Muscari (grape hyacinth, match-heads)
Narcissi Hyacinth
Tulip
Trillium
Tulip 'Blue Parrot'
Narcissus 'Hawera'
Common Problems
Tulips don't flower in second season Tulips need a winter chilling to flower. In warm climates, treat them as an annual and chill in the fridge for 8-10 weeks before planting.
Mice eat the bulbs Plant bulbs in wire mesh or chickenwire cages
Aphid damage to tulips Spray or drench emerging tulip leaves with pyretheum, directing into the centre of the leaves.
Narcissi fly damage Buy from a reputable grower. Old coffee grounds over the planting hole can deter narcissi fly and also adds nitrogen to the soil.
